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(eg: or or ) At a later date when it's time to replace the water heater, a condensing tank (or tankless) HW heater could also still be used, and efficiency would be quite high. With a hydronic coil & air handler the leaking heat exchanger problem simply doesn't exist. The burner on the gas HW heater visible on the edge of the picture is probably big enough to cover both space heating & hot water using an air handler with a hydronic coil, which may be cheaper and would as-efficient as replacing the existing unit with a right-sized 80% AFUE heater. IIRC CA Title 24 requires duct leakage testing & remediation to some limit whenever HVAC equipment is replaced/commissioned, as well as some maximum oversizing fraction on a Manual-J type heat gain/loss calculation (which is easily & often fudged to the high side even by well-intentioned contractors.) Whether you keep the ducts &/or furnace or not, sealing all joints & seams the ducts and taping every seam on the furnace with FSK tape is a good idea. The lack of mastic-sealant on the galvanized ducts (particularly but not exclusively the el below the fiberglass insulated duct) is an indication that unsealed ducts are probably wasting double-digit fraction of the heating fuel being directed somewhere else, while sucking up garage fumes and creating pressure differences between rooms that drive air infiltration rates. With a ducted heat pump your COP would drop, and you'd have duct leakage losses, but most would still be operating-cost competitive with condensing gas.Īs long as the ducts are air-tight, the small amount of surface damage/wear on the insulation isn't much to be concerned about. (If yours is an open floor plan odds are you'd get a coefficient of performance of ~4 or better during the heating season using a ductless split system, which would be cheaper to operate than condensing gas (even if you sealed the ducts), and way cheaper to operate than a ~70% efficient gas burner located in an unconditioned garage.

In many SoCal homes even a smallest-in-class condensing furnace may still be oversized, in which case a variable speed R410A-refrigerant 16-18 SEER heat pump for both heating & cooling might be the better investment.
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With a zip code (for weather data) and a heating-season's worth of gas bills it's possible to figure out what a "right sized" gas furnace would be. If your AC of similar vintage & condition that too needs to be looked at with a jaundiced eye. If history is any guide it's probably at least 2x oversized for your design day heating load (likely more), and is probably running under 70% efficiency, even if it's as-rated AFUE the day it left the factory was 78%. Seriously, if this beast is over 20 years old (and it may be old enough to qualify for an AARP card ) any money spent on maintainning or repairing it is wasted.


Thanks in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide.
PAYNE SERIAL NUMBER REGISTRATION
YOU MUST COMPLETE THE ONLINE WARRANTY REGISTRATION FOR ALL COMPONENTS THAT WERE INSTALLED. Your system MAY include any or a combination of the following:Īir Conditioner, Heat Pump, Furnace, Fan Coil, Evaporator Coil, Thermostat, Humidifier/Air Purifier.Trying to decide if this unit is salvageable or needs to be removed in preparation for a newer more efficient furnace or HVAC system.ĭoes the old fiberglass covered ducting need to be replaced regardless?

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We are providing you with a link to each manufacturers Warranty Registration website as well as the corresponding registration phone # a downloadable PDF of the Warranty Card.
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/ ATTENTION HOMEOWNERS /// – YOU MUST PROPERLY REGISTER YOUR NEW HVAC EQUIPMENT TO ENSURE YOU RECEIVE THE FULL MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY!įailure to properly register your new HVAC equipment will result in the Manufacturers Warranty period being shortened or void.
